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Gotta keep those breadboard power supplies from getting fried, I'll be making a couple of these for my breadboard setups. This is really helpful, I didn't know exactly where to fuse or what the fuse Amperage should be. Thanks!

Thanks @electronzap it's great that you talk us through these circuits. You make a great teacher and your time is greatly appreciated. Glad you keep this channel going. Great work, please keep it up!

Another great video... Do you plan on getting into counters and memory in the future?

Interesting demonstration video!

Could you replace one of the resistors in the 555 timer with a potentiometer to evenly vary the speed? If so, which one?

Your videos are perfect! Thank you for putting these out

There’s a lot Counterfeits out there. Be careful.

NICE VIDEO!! Yes, If both the LED's are on while hooked to the same HC output, they are oscillating. It would be very interesting to see how a decoupling cap (TAN. 0.1uF), connected to the power and gnd pins of the IC (on your breadboard) would effect this 'critical' region'. Back in the day (decade) when I was designing PCB's, I would place the decouple caps UNDER the IC (it was in a socket) so I could get the leads as short as possible. Many times this cap is absolutely critical.... the fact that they always made the power and gnd pins of these IC's as far away apart as possible (diagonally), is still a mystery to me. Also,another odd thing...I zapped a couple cmos chips while using a wrist grounding strap!! It turned out that the IC was at a high static potential and the surge of current to ground zapped it. The solution was to always have the ic in conductive GROUNDED foam...I vividly remember some pretty significant electrical shocks when I touched the conductive foam grounded to earth. I keep about a square foot of foam attached to my bench directly running to the green wire!

Thanks for all the videos …. I took electronics in high school 40 years ago and I’ve forgotten so much of it ….im currently trying to relearn and learn how these IC’s work … most videos on RUclips explain from a advanced level I’ll catch up eventually

Simulating with 9V when the potentiometer is set at 2.78k/7.22k is when the inversion (flip) occurs.

thank you sir for all

Hi there! I'm totally new to using this device. My dad was an electrical wizard and had probably every device or tool you can think of, but now that he has passed away I'm trying to use his things to troubleshoot issues I have around my house. Please bear with me as I'm not well versed in these things! Currently my dishwasher is on the fritz; it will not turn on but I wanted to further diagnose the issue before buying random parts or a whole new dishwasher. I saw a video about how to test the voltage coming from the black and white wires underneath the dishwasher, and the video said the voltage should be 120 v. When I use my oscilloscope (the exact model you have in your video), I get a reading of 0.108 v. Am I supposed to ignore the decimal?? Your device looks like mine when nothing is happening (reading 0.000 v), but I see yours changes to 04.98 v when you tested voltage (the decimal place moved). Am I doing something wrong, or is my reading indicating that I have an issue with the breaker?? Thank you in advance!

Can you please answer my questions to my project?😢😢😢

What will be the values of the 2 resistors if 12v is supplied to the 2 transistors rather 5v, and also 12v to the supply side of the LED?? Because I currently have the same project... In place of LED, I will put 12V 756 ohm resistance relay. And in place of 2n3904, I will use BC547.

I don’t see a (AND )IC that would cause this circuit to act this way ….i’m just seeing 2 switches in a series circuit

List of my videos ruclips.net/user/electronzapvideos www.youtube.com/@Electronzap/community for most of the diagrams I've used in my videos. www.amazon.com/shop/electronzapdotcom As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. Americans should check out one or more of those links before making any purchases. There's no extra cost to you. electronzap.com/ www.reddit.com/r/ElectronicsStudy/

Scheme is a bit confusing without dot's where exist connection.

Understanding current sources can be a current source of frustration! 😅

Cheers !

Well Done. Great Video

It took me too long to realize that the ceiling hadn't been painted to look like the sky.

Helpful, thanks

Thanks for another great video!! I had exactly the same problem of the BB buttons popping out. I just cut off a bit of the tips and soldered some solid lead..just enough so the switch still sits flat and the wire goes deep...problem gone!

Thank You

Could you have solar panel walls and capture some of the energy used in lighting indoor homes?

This video brought something back to mind: (I needed LIGHT=ON... reverse polarity from your circuit and PNP...I would have to find the schema to be sure) I remember with a circuit...it turns out that if you 'very carefully' place the LDR in the correct proximity with the LED, the 'leakage light' from the LED can give a sort of POSITIVE FEEDBACK to the LDR and cause the LED to snap-on much faster...avoiding that slow turn-on area. I tried several variations of this, but finally got it to work....depends much on the brightness of the LED. It looks like you are using a low-brightness LED though, IIRC mine was green or blue...the color made a difference.

You have never explained about this. Can you explain this??? Why the input switch is always kept at the base side?? Can not it be keep at the power side of the collector with base and emitter keeping constant??? Or, can not it be kept at the emitter side with base and collector side constant??? Please explain.

the diode passes X volts, not blocks

Nice demo. The op-amp output can source or sink current, so when you flip the switch all you're doing is changing where the ground is. Not an actual dual power supply, but a good way to simulate it with an op-amp.

Good stuff

I may have run across another way to get an a/c signal from a 555 timer through a mosfet IRF530N powered off the rail @ 5V. I'm pretty sure anyway (being "green" and all :-)

Love it.

Thank you

Interesting information! Excellent video!

You don't get the recognition that you should. Thoroughly understanding the basics is paramount. Good job.

Sir. After supercapacitor charged fully still it is connected in charger circuit will it damage the supercapacitor

Why we connect the emitters of both?is it not that we get the output from collector point ...be it npn or pnp? Am I missing something?

wow thats almost identical to the first thing i ever built which was a 12v indicator for a car battery, used a 741 opamp and a standard diode for the zener so one side of the opamp was held at 0.6v and the variable side was set similar, way back in 1977 lol, we fitted it into my grandads vauxhall viva (uk car) was always good to see the red and green led on together when we got in the car, then it would go red as the car was cranking to start and then to green when started and the alternator started to charge the battery. I cant remember if it had any feedback to make a bigger dead spot / hysteresis in the middle region. makes me want to build a new one lol

GREAT VIDEO!!...those caps are so important! One thing I do with the T0-220 package, when used on a breadboard, is twist (not bend) the pins 90 degrees with needle-nose pliers so that they don't permanently damage the board-contact strips when inserted.

Thanks for this useful tutorial! 😊

Would this work if I have a square wave 0-5v signal that I need to output inverted from input signal. So as sensor outputs 0v I need it up converted to 5v and when sensor output 5v I need it down converted to ~0v? It’s a crank position sensor so it switches relatively quickly back and forth.

It’s interesting to play with MOSFETs. I noticed once that if you turn it on, and leave the gate floating, the LED will stay on. I wonder if you could make a video on that?

just wanted to say thanks! still learning and this helped

very good and informative use of the 555 🙂

Btw, when searching for "battery switching module" on Amazon, almost all results use this relay, and many use *two* of it as if it's "single throw". Can you guess why?!

Do you think if this relay is reliable for a 5A AC motor with an inrush current of 15-20A for only 1-2 seconds?

I am glad I do not go to those places

They are on Amazon but everything is in Chinese so unless you can get it translated , it’s a guessing game.